Yen, Trains, and Automobiles: Navigating the Quirks of Japan


Ah, Japan. Land of the rising sun, technological marvels, and... inexplicable devotion to cold, hard cash? If you're planning a trip to this enigmatic archipelago, prepare yourself for a journey that's equal parts bewildering and beautiful. Like a haiku that leaves you scratching your head yet oddly moved, Japan has a way of confounding expectations while simultaneously exceeding them.


Let's start with the elephant in the room, shall we? Or should I say, the shiba in the convenience store? Japan, for all its robot restaurants and toilet seats that play music (because who doesn't want a symphony while they... nevermind), is stubbornly, charmingly stuck in the cash era. You’ll be standing in a bustling Tokyo street, surrounded by neon signs that make Times Square look like a country fair. You spot a vending machine selling what appears to be canned bread (don't ask, just buy it), and reach for your trusty credit card. But wait! This machine, like many establishments in Japan, sneers at your plastic rectangle of capitalism.


Here's where the fun begins. You'll need to embrace your inner coin collector and start hoarding yen like a squirrel preparing for a nuclear winter. And oh boy, will you get coins. So. Many. Coins. By day three of your trip, you'll be jingling like a reindeer on Christmas Eve. Pro tip: invest in a coin purse. Your future self (and the poor souls standing behind you in line as you count out exact change) will thank you.


Now, let's talk about the language barrier. Learning a few basic Japanese phrases is about as essential as remembering to pack underwear. Unless, of course, you enjoy playing an eternal game of charades with increasingly bewildered locals. My personal favorite is "Sumimasen" (excuse me), which I used with such frequency and desperation that I'm pretty sure several Tokyo residents now think it's my name.


But fear not, intrepid traveler! For in this land of linguistic confusion, there exists a beacon of hope: the almighty train system. Japan's public transportation is a marvel of efficiency that makes NASA look like they're playing with toy rockets. The trains run with such punctuality that you can set your watch by them – assuming you can figure out how to read the timetables, that is.


Navigating the labyrinthine subway systems of Tokyo or Osaka is an adventure in itself. It's like being in a live-action game of Pac-Man, only instead of ghosts, you're avoiding salarymen sprinting to make their connections. Download a navigation app, or even use Google Maps, and cling to it like it's the last onigiri at a sumo wrestling match. Trust me, it's the difference between confidently striding onto your train and ending up in Hokkaido when you meant to go to Harajuku.


Speaking of navigation, let me introduce you to your new best friend: the IC card. The two big brands are Suica and Pasmo. This magical piece of plastic is like a skeleton key to the kingdom of Japan. It's a train pass! It's a vending machine unlocker! It's a way to pay for your third convenience store egg sandwich of the day without judgment! (Side note: Japanese convenience stores are a wonderland of culinary delights. Don't knock it till you've tried it.)

But even with all these modern conveniences, there will be times when you find yourself desperately seeking an ATM like a dehydrated camel searching for an oasis. Fear not! Convenience stores (there's that word again) often have ATMs that accept international cards. Just remember to bow slightly to the ATM as you withdraw your cash. It's not necessary, but it feels right, doesn't it?

As you navigate these quirks and idiosyncrasies, remember that it's all part of the charm. Japan is a country where ancient traditions and futuristic innovations coexist in a dance as graceful as a geisha and as awkward as a robot attempting the Macarena. Embrace the confusion, laugh at the mishaps, and treasure the moments of unexpected beauty.

After all, isn't that what travel is all about? Now, if you'll excuse me, I need to go count my coins. I hear there's a vending machine selling cans of air from Mount Fuji, and I simply must have one.

August 27, 2024 — Richard Whillas